London, Copenhagen, and Stockholm

Stockholm

Copenhagen

I just returned from a trip more than a year in the making with two dear friends (S and K) to London, Copenhagen, and Stockholm. The trip was a much needed reprieve from New York and the work grind.

A funny (read: annoying) thing happened to my while I was away: my DSLR started giving me an error message and although it still captured pictures–they came out super dark. I didn’t realize it was busted before I left the States and the problem persisted throughout the trip. So some of the images I include here have lost a bit of their integrity, but gained a ’70s analog aesthetic. Thankfully most were salvageable with some Photoshop work. The others were taken on my iPhone.

Grayson Perry

Friday, June 9

Our flight got into London in the morning–leaving us a full day to wander the city. After a nap to overcome the jet lag and a snack, S hung back with her sister (who hosted us) while K and I navigated the underground/tube and made our way (quite ambitiously) to the Serpentine Galleries (where we saw amazing works by U.K. artist and Turner recipient, Grayson Perry and LA artist Arthur Jafa), Hyde Park, The National Portrait Gallery, and the Tate Modern. S’s sister hosted a barbecue for us + her in-laws (in-town from the States) and their friend. It was a lovely night of wine and grilling with a lot of discussion re: art (also discussing the new Tate viewing deck that looks straight into the living rooms of high-priced London flats) and politics and the Sound of Music and the Holocaust.

Dreamland Margate

Saturday, June 10

The real impetus for our trip was Demon Dayz: the musical festival hosted by Gorillaz/Damon Albarn featuring most of the artists on their new album Humanz. The festival was at Dreamland at Margate–a seaside theme park similar to Coney Island (only better maintained/not as creepy). We got on a bus and made our way to Margate from London (about an hour and 45 minute drive) where we had the best fish and chips (no exaggeration), ate way too much cotton candy, got a sunburn, waited in line for over an hour for a dinner of fried chicken sandwiches and fries, rode the wooden roller coaster, and the ferris wheel and jammed to Damon and co. into the night.

Tivoli

Sunday, June 11
In the morning, we flew from London to Copenhagen. Because we simply did not consume enough sugar or amusement park fun at Margate, the first thing we did upon arrival in Copenhagen was visit Tivoli Gardens. Our hotel/hostel was located right next to the train station so we were a mere stones throw away from Tivoli. For a flat entrance fee we were able to go on an unlimited amount of rides. We also consumed way too much licorice and had burgers, hot dogs, and fries for dinner. In addition to riding all of the roller coasters, we also went on the Hans Christensen Anderson ride, and had a session of bumper cars where we were the only three in the rink.

Monday, June 12

We began our day with breakfast (more of a brunch, really) at Atelier September, then we walked to Freetown Christiania–the self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood in Copenhagen where no one owns property, everything is shared, and people sell weed on the street. While we were there it started down-pouring and a kind resident let us take refuge in the entryway to his communal house. Afterwards we visited the Copenhagen Architecture Center and ate lunch at Copenhagen Street Food, a food hall on the harbor with an amazing selection of local and international cuisines. From there we walked to the central shopping area and visited Illums Bolighus–a department store focusing on Scandinavian design. After a stop back at the hotel, we had dinner at Baest, an upscale Italian pizza spot, and ended the night at Superkilen–an adult playground/skate park.

Tuesday, June 13

We rented a car and drove to Møns Klint in Borre, Denmark. S drove since she’s the only one who can drive manual. The chalky/rocky beaches are beautiful and the sounds that result from shuffling along the rocks add to the whole sensory experience. The various hikes down to the beach are all pretty steep and require that you then hike back up (there are many, many stairs).

After getting back to Copenhagen, we quickly fit in a stop at the Rundetaarn observatory and had dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar in the meatpacking district, despite the fact that S doesn’t eat seafood. Afterwards, as we were passing through a parking lot on our way home we ran into a group of Swedes/Americans and somehow ended up at two gay bars (Masken Bar and Cosy Bar) with new friends in tow. (Fun fact: You can still smoke cigarettes inside bars in Denmark).

A note about the Danes: they are all the loveliest and friendliest lot of people ever. Apparently Denmark consistently ranks #1 for the happiest people on earth. Everyone was so welcoming and accommodating and genuinely helpful and upbeat. It was a welcome change from whatever is in the air/water in New York.

Wednesday, June 14

On our last day in Copenhagen, S went on a boat tour (and saw the Little Mermaid statue) and K and I went to Louisiana, which may actually be one of my favorite museums in the world. I was told that the art is secondary to the architecture and the grounds–which I now agree with. You could spend an entire day wandering around the space, admiring the views, eating lunch on the terrace, gazing at the pond, etc. There was also a huge slide for added bonus points. Such an amazing place.

In the evening, we flew into Stockholm and checked into our super chic, modern studio in the hip Södermalm.

Thursday, June 15

After getting caught in a downpour (and after getting a bit of a late start since the exhaustion was mounting) we decided to go to the Vasa museum–a 1628 shipwreck that was salvaged 300 years later and preserved. For dinner we ate at an amazing, kitschy Thai place on Södermalm called Koh Phangan. We tried to get a little taste of nightlife at Trägarden, but I didn’t have my ID and thus did not get in (who would have known that the security could be so strict in Europe?) The security guard/bouncer was not nice about it.

Friday, June 16

I hung back at the apartment while S and K went to the Swedish history museum. I met them later in the day at the Royal Palace where we explored the Royal Apartments and chapel. For dinner we met up with a friend from grad school E at Urban Deli and went back to Trägarden for a do-over. It’s a great space located under and underpass, with multiple floors and dance floors and DJs spinning all sorts of music–an overall chill crowd and great vibes.

Saturday, June 17

We took a boat to Vaxholm, to explore a bit of the archipelago. Didn’t get too far, but we managed to explore some of the fort and take a nap on some rocks near the water. For our last meal, we ate at an Asian place called East in central Stockholm.

Sunday, June 18

Woke up at 5:30 a.m. for our flight back to the States.